By: Suzanne Whitby
Until a few days ago, if you had asked me to tell you about Sierra Leone I would have had to think long and hard before telling you much about this West African country. I may have mentioned something about the slave trade being connected to Sierra Leone. I could certainly have told you that they had experienced a brutal civil war.
Slavery and war. A pretty negative view of what is in fact an exceptionally positive country. Today, I see Sierra Leone from an entirely different perspective.
It is difficult to ignore Sierra Leone’s history. Once a fertile area inhabited by dozens of tribes, it was settled by the Portuguese in the 1400’s who built a fort as a trading post for gold, spices, ivory and slaves. A British protectorate in later years, Sierra Leone had the dubious honour of becoming home to more than 40,000 freed slaves who gave Freetown its name. As a protectorate, Sierra Leone was exploited for its mineral and diamond wealth in the 1900’s and Sierra Leonean’s fought against the Germans in Cameroon in the First World War, and alongside the British in the Second World War. In 1961, Sierra Leone achieved independence from Britain and governed itself peacefully for 30 years. The peace did not to last and was followed by a decade of brutal civil war that destroyed the economy, brutalised the people and left a country that is rich in resources as one of the poorest in the world.
The conflict was officially declared over in January 2002, and President Kabbah reelected in May 2002. Since then, the people of Sierra Leone have been pulling together to repair, renew and regenerate.
Indeed, proof of regeneration is everywhere - new roads are being built, mines are being re-opened, markets are once again thriving and humming with life. There is also a great deal of confidence in Sierra Leone’s potential as a tourist destination - a Chinese company has recently invested a reputed US$270 million in the hotel infrastructure and more is set to follow.
The confidence is justified. The beaches along Sierra Leone’s golden peninsula are said to be one of the world’s best kept secrets. Secluded, clean and stretching for miles on end, beach tourism is top of the government’s tourism promotion agenda.
Although many of the forests and much of the wildlife has been disturbed, and in some cases destroyed, by the war, eco-tourism is an important focus of Sierra Leoneans and natural treasures like Outamba-Kilimi National Park, Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, Tiwai Island and Mount Bintimani are just some of the worthwhile wildlife attractions on offer.
The bird life has been less affected by the war than the animals, and everywhere you go, the air is filled with birdsong. Sierra Leone is a bird-watchers dream! Tiwai Island for one boasts over 135 different bird species!
For cultural enthusiasts, the remnants of the slave trade make interesting and though-provoking expeditions. Graves, monuments and forts are all that remain of British and Portuguese power in Sierra Leone: each has a tale to tell. There are over 16 different ethnic groups in the country, including the Krio, descendents of freed slaves who speak an English-based Creole called Krio, and visiting villages and chatting to people in markets and in the streets is rewarding for all parties!
Freetown is probably the most developed of the cities, offering a high level of safety. Hotels and nightspots are sprouting like mushrooms, and eating out in Sierra Leone promises a range of traditional and international treats.
It is, however, the Sierra Leoneans themselves who make this country such an exciting destination. They are frequently joyful in the face of difficult times, and unfailingly welcoming, greeting aid-workers and travellers alike with smiles that you can only find in Africa, with an optimism - no, positivity - that other countries would do well to emulate.
For travellers in search of a “diamond in the rough”, Sierra Leone offers a holiday like no other - my only advice to you is to visit sooner rather than later, to avoid what is sure to be a stampede once holiday-makers and tour operators latch on to this gem of a destination.
For more information visit:
Naturally Africa - Information on African travel and tourism